布達佩斯的漁夫堡
布達佩斯的漁夫堡 6park.com 廿年前在“萊茵河之珠”科隆生活過的我,曾遐猜過“多瑙河之珠”的布達佩斯能會曼妙到個啥樣。這一憧憬終在今夏變成現實,我蒞臨了匈牙利國都,圓了腳淌過兩條歐洲最著名大川之夢,一如涉過了華夏的長江與黃河。 6park.com 身臨了匈國京畿的城下,方窺出藍色的多瑙河流經這裡剛好把山地與平原切割開來,形成了西邊的布達和東邊的佩斯兩部分,它們最初原是各自爲政的倆獨立城市,直至19世紀才合二為一、統稱為布達佩斯。如果從最早的羅馬帝國殖民點算起,布達已有近兩千年的歷史;若以匈牙利的主要民族馬扎爾人定居繁衍為記,迄今亦逾1100載。故他們的後裔在1896年於佩斯區修建了宏大的“英雄廣場”,和歐陸的第一條地鐵綫,紀念源於突厥的先祖長途遷徙到此扎根千禧年。 6park.com 欣賞布達佩斯市容的最佳地點是位於河邊的漁夫堡,這個曾經的要塞,臨淵而建,虎踞龍盤在半崖,視野開闊,固若金湯,既可輕而易舉控制水道,又難被攻克,拱衛著座落於其後的皇宮禦城,成爲了該城的馳名地標。 6park.com 沿著曲折參曡的石梯,我們拾階而上這座古砲臺,峰回路轉,隨目可見大小不一、圓墩狀尖帽頂的石塔堡壘,塔身的鏤空窗亦呈圓拱形,一色的石灰岩泛著淡淡的乳白,整個城堡乾淨整潔,甚至有點使人恍惚好像袖珍型的德意志新天鵝堡。堡頂寬闊的圍牆上筑有哥特式長拱廊,獨有特色,不輸於神州名山上的飛檐亭臺,從每個廊洞中望遠出去,眸前展開的如幅幅天然水粉畫,亦宛若連環畫般的屏風壁立。俯身厚實垛口往下探,山勢陡峭深邃,每教人聯想到戰時居高臨下滾石放矢、開火射炮的鏖鬥場景。 6park.com 人們在堡上徘徊鳥瞰,喀嚓拍照,多瑙河如青羅帶逶迤舒展向遠方,對岸邊雄踞著宏偉的國會大廈、飛架的鏈橋,鬱蔥的河心島,兀立著的聖斯蒂夫大教堂等,盡收眼底,叫人心曠神怡。 6park.com 轉身目睹堡内的宅區,撲面一座高大的教堂--- 馬加什[Matthias],它身價不凡,鐘樓塔尖頗有“刺破青天鍔未殘”之勢,大片陡斜頂蓋的瓦片全部由彩色馬賽克鋪就,在陽光下繽紛絢麗,用這種建築材料作裝飾,鮮見於西歐諸教堂,因此構成了該聖殿的特徵。堂邊廣場上,一尊碩壯的騎馬人物銅雕格外醒目,主人公是匈國的“秦始皇”---- 首任國王伊什特萬。 6park.com 走進這座700嵗高齡的教堂,盡見新哥特式的風情,四壁皆金燦輝煌,穹頂拱柱均為彩繪漆凃,牆懸著許多的巨幅壁畫,給人琳琅滿目、藝術殿堂的感覺,有別於多數教堂的沉重肅穆。值得一提的,是奧匈皇帝弗朗茨-約瑟夫與茜茜公主[伊麗莎白皇后]曾在這裡加冕成爲匈牙利的國王、王后,其時的鋼琴大師李斯特專門作曲《匈牙利加冕彌撒》,在這兒首演恭賀盛典。現這聖殿也作爲重要的文藝大雅之堂,每年開放給國内外著名音樂家舉辦盛會,“周日管風琴之夜”,每吸引著歐洲衆多的觀衆前來享受欣賞。 6park.com 毗鄰著的是富麗堂皇的舊王宮區,充斥著連片的敦厚典雅老樓,許是年久失修,略顯頽廢,畢竟是歷經了七個世紀的滄桑,仍不失古香豪奢的帝邸氣派。如今是國家圖書館、畫廊、博物館等所在地,向大衆開放。毗鄰著的桑多爾宮是現在的總統府。這個地勢與格局,酷似布拉格的城堡山,可見各君王建宮殿的選址所見略同。而這爿風水寶地在25年前就被聯合國收入“世界文化遺產”名錄,顯示出其歷史人文的價值不菲。在此流連,確讓人心生君臨天下的蕩氣回腸。
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</pre>
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<center>喜欢星学朋友的这个贴子的话,<a href=) 请点这里投票,“赞”助支持!
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